If you love the Arizona road life, an RV garage home in Gilbert can be a game changer. Yet not every “RV-ready” listing will fit your coach or your plans once you look closely. The right home should handle clearance, hookups, turning, and HOA rules without surprises.

This guide gives you a clear checklist you can carry to showings. You will know what to measure, what to ask, and how to spot red flags before you write an offer. Let’s dive in.

Why Gilbert works for RV owners

Gilbert offers neighborhoods with side yards, accessory garages, and space for toys. Still, each community has its own rules. You should plan for town permitting and HOA guidelines that affect door heights, visible parking, and screening.

The Town of Gilbert and Maricopa County handle zoning, right of way, stormwater, and permits. HOAs enforce CC&Rs, architectural approvals, and fines. Before you get attached to a property, confirm who regulates what and how that applies to your use.

Quick fit check for your RV

Measure your rig first

• Typical heights vary: Class A about 12 to 13 feet 6 inches, Class C about 11 to 12 feet, Class B about 8 to 10 feet. Roof AC units and satellite domes add inches.
• Record your total height, width, and length, including mirrors, ladder, hitch, and bike racks.

Match door and ceiling height

• Standard doors are 7 to 8 feet tall, which is too short for most RVs.
• RV garage doors commonly range from 12 to 14 feet tall. For Class A storage, target 13 to 15 feet of interior clearance to allow for lighting and ventilation.
• Verify the door header and framing are built to support a taller opening.

Verify width and depth

• Legal RV width is typically 8 feet 6 inches without mirrors. A single RV bay should offer at least 10 to 12 feet of clear interior width.
• Many RV doors are 12 to 14 feet wide. Wider helps with mirror clearance.
• Depth matters. Plan length plus room to work: about 45 to 50 feet of interior depth for a 40 foot coach, 35 to 40 feet for a 30 foot RV.

Test approach and turning

• Check gate width. Aim for a gate that exceeds vehicle width by 12 to 18 inches total for safe entry.
• Walk the approach path. Look for walls, mailboxes, landscaping, or tight side setbacks that pinch clearance.
• Check slope. Steep transitions can cause scraping. Approaches under about 5 to 8 percent are more manageable for large rigs.
• If possible, ask the seller to demonstrate entry and exit or share video of prior maneuvers.

Power, water, and sewer readiness

Electrical hookups

• Most larger coaches need a 50 amp 120/240V hookup. Smaller towables may use 30 amp 120V.
• Look for a dedicated RV outlet or pedestal, proper breaker labeling, and weatherproof enclosures.
• Confirm the home’s main electrical service capacity. A 200 amp service is common. Adding a 50 amp RV circuit may require a service upgrade in some cases.
• Outdoor receptacles and pedestals should meet the National Electrical Code and local permit requirements.

Water supply and pressure

• A frost free spigot near storage is helpful. Backflow prevention and a pressure regulator protect RV plumbing. Many RV systems are happiest around 40 to 50 psi.
• Check hose reach and whether water lines are protected from sun exposure.

Sewer and waste handling

• A dedicated sewer stub tied to the home’s sewer or septic is the most convenient, but it must meet local plumbing code and wastewater rules.
• Some owners use portable tanks or dump at commercial stations. Confirm your plan is allowed for this property.
• Many places restrict greywater or black water discharge to the ground or storm drains. Verify Gilbert and county rules before assuming a direct connection is permitted.

Slab, driveway, and structure

Concrete thickness and reinforcement

• Passenger car driveways are often 4 inches thick. RVs are heavier and concentrate loads at axles.
• A reinforced slab of about 6 inches is common for light heavy vehicles. For repeated heavy loads, 8 to 12 inches or an engineer designed section is recommended.
• Ask about subgrade compaction, reinforcement, and any engineering for the slab and driveway.

Drainage and slope

• Water should shed away from the home, neighboring lots, and foundations. Check where runoff flows from the slab and driveway.
• Look for oil stains or soft joints that could hint at weak base material.

Gates, fencing, and security

• Confirm gate swing or roll direction and that it does not intrude into the right of way.
• Inspect posts, hinges, and columns. Frequent use by large vehicles calls for robust hardware and foundations.

Permits, zoning, and HOA rules in Gilbert

When permits are required

• Enlarging a garage door, raising rooflines, or structural changes typically require building permits and approved plans.
• Installing a 30 or 50 amp RV hookup or a sewer connection usually requires electrical or plumbing permits and inspections.

Zoning and site limits

• Setbacks, lot coverage, and impermeable surface limits can affect where you place a slab or accessory garage.
• RVs should not block sidewalks or extend into the public right of way.

HOA and architectural control

• HOAs may limit visible RV parking, require screening, or restrict parking to side or rear yards. They may control gate types, colors, and garage aesthetics.
• Obtain the full HOA packet before offering. Review CC&Rs, rules, violation history, and architectural standards.

Insurance considerations

• Confirm with your insurer how RV storage, electrical upgrades, or structural modifications affect coverage.
• Permitted work and documented inspections support insurability and future resale.

Your pre offer document checklist

Gather these before you write an offer so you can confirm feasibility and budget.

• Full HOA packet: CC&Rs, bylaws, rules, recent minutes, any violation notices, and the architectural approval contact.
• Property survey showing setbacks, easements, and right of way.
• Seller disclosures for alterations, permits pulled, known code issues, or insurance claims.
• Copies of permits and finals for any garage, electrical, plumbing, or structural work.
• Utility information: main electrical service size, water meter size, and sewer or septic details.

On site inspection checklist

Take a tape, level app, and camera. Measure, photograph, and note everything.

• Clearance and doors: interior clear height at center and rear, door opening height and width, and any low beams, ducts, or storage.
• Depth and workspace: clear interior depth, any floor slope, and room to access rear compartments.
• Width and circulation: interior clear width, door opening width, and gate width including hinge hardware.
• Approach and turning: obstructions along the path, approach grade, and distance from curb to gate or garage.
• Slab and driveway: cracking, settlement, heaving, stains, and edge firmness that could reveal poor compaction.
• Electrical: main panel size, any subpanels, labeled RV outlets, and GFCI protection.
• Water and sewer: location of spigots, backflow device, pressure regulator, and sewer cleanouts near the parking area.
• Drainage: where runoff flows from the slab and driveway, and whether it affects the home or neighbor lots.
• Security and gates: gate operation, clearance when open, and locking hardware.
• Overhead utilities: lines that could limit height along the approach.

Key questions to ask

HOA approvals and use

• Are RVs or boats allowed in the driveway, side yard, or rear yard? Are screening, gate styles, or colors specified?
• Are there size or time limits for visible parking? What is the enforcement process and fine schedule?

Town and permitting

• Are past modifications permitted and finaled? Will proposed changes like taller doors, slabs, or hookups require permits and inspections?
• Are there stormwater or drainage requirements for new impermeable areas on this lot?

Utilities and wastewater

• Will the wastewater utility allow a direct RV sewer connection at this address? What connection details are required?
• What are the requirements for exterior electrical pedestals, metering, and contractor licensing?

Red flags to negotiate or avoid

• No permits for major modifications such as door enlargement, slab pours, or utility upgrades.
• CC&Rs that prohibit visible RV parking or require impractical screening.
• Major slab cracking or settlement that indicates a likely re pour.
• Insufficient electrical capacity, for example a 100 amp main without room for a 50 amp circuit.
• Sewer connection absent or disallowed if a stub is part of your plan.
• Approach geometry so tight that routine entry risks damage.
• Overhead utilities or recorded easements that restrict paving or structures.

Pro team to involve

• Licensed structural or civil engineer for slab design, reinforcement, and drainage.
• Licensed electrician to assess service capacity and install RV hookups.
• Licensed plumber for sewer stub, backflow, and code compliance.
• Real estate or HOA attorney for complex CC&R review.
• Experienced contractor for gates, driveway modifications, and cost estimates.
• Home inspector familiar with accessory garages and vehicle storage.

Next steps

• Get the HOA packet, permit history, survey, and utility info before you tour.
• Do a first pass fit check by comparing your RV specs to door height, interior clearance, and approach geometry.
• If the fit looks promising, write an offer with contingencies for professional inspections, permit verification, and HOA approval confirmation.
• Price the work. Obtain quotes for any needed upgrades such as door replacement, slab reinforcement, gate widening, or service upgrades before you remove contingencies.

When you want a smooth search and a confident offer, partner with an advisor who understands lifestyle features and local rules. For tailored guidance on RV garage homes in Gilbert, schedule a conversation with Christopher Doyle.

FAQs

What door height fits most Class A motorhomes?

• Many Class A coaches need a 12 to 14 foot door, with 13 to 15 feet of interior clearance for safe margin.

How deep should an RV garage be for a 40 foot coach?

• Plan for about 45 to 50 feet of clear interior depth to allow rear access and workspace.

Do I need a 50 amp hookup at home?

• Larger Class A and many Class C rigs use 50 amp 120/240V service, while smaller towables often use 30 amp 120V. Confirm your coach requirements.

Can I connect my RV to the home sewer in Gilbert?

• A direct connection may be possible, but it must meet local plumbing code and wastewater rules. Always confirm approval and required details first.

Will an HOA in Gilbert allow driveway RV parking?

• Policies vary by community. Some require screening or restrict visible parking to side or rear yards. Review the full CC&Rs and rules before you offer.

How thick should the driveway slab be for an RV?

• A reinforced 6 inch slab is common for lighter heavy vehicles, while repeated heavy loads often call for 8 to 12 inches or an engineer’s design.